Textile Waste
Waste not, want not.
t’s an old proverb, one you’ve probably heard many times over the years. But in today’s age of rampant consumerism and social media comparison, it’s a simple call for self-reflection that rings true now more than ever.
In truth, the fashion industry wastes quite a bit. Textile waste – defined by Dr. Daniel Tang Kuok Ho, a professor at the University of Arizona, as “any undesirable or discarded piece of fabric or clothing that is unfit for its original purpose” – is a profound and staggering concern. According to Earth.org, 92 million metric tons of textile waste go into landfills around the world each year. This is expected to increase to over 130 million metric tons by 2030.
That’s millions and millions of T-shirts and jeans, flannel shirts and denim overalls, gowns and garments of all shapes, colors, sizes, materials, and brands sitting, rotting, and decomposing in heaps. Not a pretty picture!
The US is a large contributor to this trend – over 11 million tons of textile waste ends up in our landfills each year. This means that the average US consumer is throwing away approximately 81.5 pounds of clothes per year, and that, on average, over 2100 garments are thrown into landfills every second.
That’s the equivalent of a garbage truck dumping a load of clothes into a landfill. Every. Second.
Compounding the scale of this mountainous problem is time. When these tons and tons of garments end up in our landfills, they sit around for hundreds of years. Synthetic fibers – polyester, nylon, spandex – that are derived from petroleum can take up to 200 years to decompose. While these garments sit around decomposing, more and more are dumped on top of them.
To be clear: Decomposition is a very slow-ticking clock that is very much not on our side. As these textiles break down, they release toxic chemicals, dyes, microplastics, and finishing agents used in the manufacturing process. These substances can seep into soil and groundwater, contaminating ecosystems, affecting local wildlife, polluting our rivers and oceans, and unsettling our local communities. These decomposing textiles also emit methane, a greenhouse gas that contributes to climate change. The sheer volume of textile waste and the frequency at which it’s discarded only serves to make this process more detrimental to the environment.
These numbers and figures paint a grim picture of a daunting challenge, one that will require considerable action from all of us. But, as we’ve said before, therein lies the opportunity, and dare we say the fun, to come together and make a positive impact on sustainability in the fashion industry.
There’s clearly systemic change needed in the fashion industry when it comes to sustainability, as leading brands continue to contribute greatly to the amount of textile waste that ends up in our landfills. Who can forget, back in 2018, when an annual report revealed that Burberry destroyed over $36 million of its own unsold merchandise to increase the exclusivity of its brand. Rightfully, this led to outrage – people demanded change from the luxury retailer and threatened to boycott if drastic measures weren’t taken. Shortly after, the brand became one of the first in the fashion industry to end the practice of destroying unsold products. By putting pressure on influential brands to cease harmful practices, we can help inspire change. This practice of holding organizations accountable can also apply to the government. Continue to show up at the ballot box and take interest in your local government’s sustainability policies. Oftentimes, the greatest impact you can have is in your own backyard.
Speaking of your own backyard – or, perhaps more aptly, your own closet – there’s also a sense of personal responsibility that must be taken if we are to remedy this issue. Research indicates that people continue to buy more clothes each year and that they wear these clothes for less time before getting rid of them. To solve this problem, we all need to make small adjustments and do what we can, when we can. Break out the sewing needle or patch kit instead of throwing away a used garment. Look for thrift stores or clothing rental opportunities instead of solely buying new. When you do buy, consider higher-quality, durable items that can last for longer, and seek out brands that promote recycling and upcycling practices.
It’s true: When we waste less, good things happen. Our air is cleaner. Our oceans are healthier. There’s more pants for people to wear and fewer jackets decomposing in landfills. A less wasteful, more sustainable future in the fashion industry is possible. We just have to want it.
Waste not, want not. Want to want not.
Alec Matulka
Doo Dah Apparel
