Fashion in Film: The Fantastic Mr. Anderson
As I’ve written about before in my posts, fashion and film often go hand-in-hand.
From the zany outfits of “Zoolander” to the suave suits of “Severance”, there are so many examples of films and television shows that further the thematic element of the overall work through characters’ clothing choices. Indeed, film and television work best when they exhibit intentionality across the entire production, and costume design is no exception. While this may seem obvious, we shouldn’t take it for granted – it takes a truly masterful director, and an equally impressive costume designer, to make all the aspects of a film sing together in harmony.
When I think about this type of cinematic cohesion, there are few directors that come to mind faster than Wes Anderson. Since his first film hit theaters in 1996, the American writer and director has put together some of the most noteworthy movies of this generation, from “Moonrise Kingdom” to “The Grand Budapest Hotel”. A feature of all these films is his signature style characterized by symmetry, vibrant colors, whimsical plots, and above all else, deliberate composition.
Within Anderson’s intentionality-laden style, the details of a film are never there merely by accident. As someone who cares about clothing, I notice this particularly in the fashion choices – Anderson and his longtime costume designer Milena Canonero are experts at creating looks for characters that both manifest their personalities while furthering the movie’s themes. As a result, Wes Anderson movies have created some unforgettable outfit-character combos, worth returning to again and again.
Let’s take a look at a few of them, shall we? Here are three fashion icons in the auteur’s
well-known works.
Monsieur Gustave, “The Grand Budapest Hotel” (2014)
There’s a reason Canonero won the Academy Award for Best Costume Design for this film at the 2015 Oscars. Monsieur Gustave’s concierge uniform – mirrored by his bellhop Zero’s uniform – helps make the concierge into the larger-than-life driving force of one of the best films of the decade.
Beyond the wonderful use of color – a royal purple to mark importance, sophistication, and authority, and a bright red trim to give it a tad of dramatic edge – Monsieur Gustave’s uniform is intricately designed. Red velvet bow tie, matching key pins, tailcoat with a notched lapel, buttons galore – Monsieur Gustave’s fashion is dripping in details. Canonero has mentioned in interviews that designing the costume for Ralph Fiennes, an incomparable and meticulous actor, was no small feat – it had to be as layered as his performance.
Beyond the wonderful use of color – a royal purple to mark importance, sophistication, and authority, and a bright red trim to give it a tad of dramatic edge – Monsieur Gustave’s uniform is intricately designed. Red velvet bow tie, matching key pins, tailcoat with a notched lapel, buttons galore – Monsieur Gustave’s fashion is dripping in details. Canonero has mentioned in interviews that designing the costume for Ralph Fiennes, an incomparable and meticulous actor, was no small feat – it had to be as layered as his performance.
We salute you, Monsieur Gustave!
Ash, “Fantastic Mr. Fox” (2009)
There are a number of iconic costumes in Anderson’s classic Roald Dahl adaptation, from Mr. Fox’s rusty corduroy suit to Mrs. Fox’s yellow apple-print dress. But I would argue that Ash’s sock-mask and cape combo are just as noteworthy.
For one, Ash’s outfit highlights the core struggle of his character throughout the film: Being seen as a hero by his community, his family, and, most importantly, his father. Throughout the film, we watch as Ash’s father, the Fantastic Mr. Fox, goes on harrowing crusades to liberate food from the nearby Boggis, Bunce, and Bean farms. Despite wanting to share in his father’s exploits, Ash is overlooked in favor of his more athletic cousin Kristofferson. Feeling the weight of this slight, Ash is forced into a series of desperate actions that, along with the exploits of his father, put his community at risk.
By mixing the classic “superhero” cape with dunce-cap-esque sock-mask, Ash’s outfit proclaims the dichotomy of how he is seen versus how he wants to be seen. As the movie progresses and Ash overcomes his grudges and gains a greater acceptance of himself as he is, his costume stands as a statement of his individuality.
Of course, beyond being a manifestation of his primary character conflict, Ash’s outfit is also sustainable! He makes his caped-crusader costume from garments he already has – a brilliant reminder that you don’t always need to shop new to stand out.
Heart on his sleeve, sock sole on his head. Absolutely iconic, Ash.
Team Zissou, “The Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou” (2004)
While the most well-known wearer (at least in the movie!) of the iconic red beanie, baby-blue jumpsuit might be the film’s namesake, Steve Zissou, the wonderful ensemble of “The Life Aquatic” also don the iconic ‘fit at various times. Given the number of memorable characters in this maritime movie, it’s worthwhile to give the whole team a shoutout.
The outfit pays homage to French naval officer and oceanographer Jacques Cousteau, a
revolutionary in the field of underwater exploration who notably sported a bright red beanie and light blue button-down shirt and pants combo. There’s something beautiful in the simplicity of the outfit, marked by contrast both of color, red versus blue, but also intensity, bright versus pale.
It reminds one – ok fine, “one” is me – of a bright fluorescent red fish swimming through a sea of light blue waves. The characters of “The Life Aquatic” don’t just explore the ocean – their fashion immerses them within it and makes them a part of it.
That all to say: Whether they’re underwater or on land, I think this team looks fantastic!
Monsieur Gustave H., Ash, Team Zissou – just three examples of excellent fashion design in the world of Wes Anderson. There are so many more to cover, but you have enough homework for now: Go watch – or rewatch! – these three wonderful films!
As always, thanks for reading – and watching!
Alec Matulka
Doo Dah Apparel
